The best way to frame a fine art painting is to choose a frame style, colour and finish, that enhances the artwork in the environment where the artwork is to be hung or presented. This isn’t always easy, but guidance from an artist who understands how to use colour to create a desired outcome can help a great deal. Decades of experience have helped me refine a range of styles, colours and finishes that will work with almost all fine art framing requirements.

Hand finishing is mainly about the finishes and detailing used after the bare wood is cut and made into a frame, preparing (sanding) and hand applying coats of primer, coloured paints and paint finishes, gilding, varnishes or waxes, and any other detailing required. All the frames I offer are hand made and hand finished in my studio, with an exquisite attention to detail.

I offer a free framing advisory service with the aim to make selecting the right framing options easier and simpler by reducing the number of decisions to be made. Simply go to the Free framing advisory [here] service product, answer a few simple questions, upload an image of your artwork and I’ll provide a visual of my recommendations, along with options and a price. It’s free (of course) and there’s no obligation at all.

I offer a sample framing and finishing service to try and simplify framing, in a similar way to my free advisory service. I make bespoke sample chevrons, framing corners, that clients can place on their artwork and view their art and framing sample where it would hung, for example. Moulding styles, hand painted colours, finishes, gilding, etc can all be specified [here]. I make small charge for the samples to cover material costs – there’s no obligation to order a frame, though of course that’s what I hope for.

I mainly use Farrow & Ball paints, and you can choose any colour (or colours) of paint from their range for use on the frame or slip as required. Adding gilt to features on the moulding shape is a very popular way of adding highlights, and typically in various tones of gold or silver. There’s a huge combination of complimentary colours and gilding that can be used to create the visual effect required, to keep things simple I have a “standard” range of styles, colours, gilt and finishes that I use to create the majority of my frames.

Mostly, yes. My interest has always been in how to present fine art at its best, and by focusing solely on hand finished fine art framing I have learnt a great deal about how to enhance the art and compliment the environment around it. Hand finishing allows me the opportunity to be fully creative in an effort to achieve the aesthetic effect that best fits the artwork and environment. I don’t frame anything other than art, though this does cover a wide range from prints to paintings.

Yes. Framing is a creative collaboration and can appear to be a little obscure. The artwork itself, the environment where it will be displayed, the effect that is desired in how the artwork is presented, are some of the factors that influence choices in framing. If you’d like some help or advice, please get in-touch – or use our FREE Advisory Service [here].

I try my best to continually reduce the impact on the environment of any of my products. I choose all the materials and consumables I use with a view to minimising environmental impact – even if there is a cost penalty. I am active in seeking out the best environmentally sound working practices, and this I hope is evident in my Environemntal Policy [here]

I offer a range of moulding styles that I’ve found over time work well with hand finishing and are appealing aesthetically. Contemporary to more traditional styles lend themselves to hand finished framing, and I will also source specific mouldings if requested. So, if you’re looking for something other than the my standard moulding styles click [here] or just get in-touch and I’d be happy to try and meet your moulding style requirements.

1 – 2 weeks from order is about the norm, depending on the finishing requirements. Every order is made from scratch, however, my standard frame sizes are often available a little quicker as I tend to fit similar sized work together for ease. The number of finishes required also makes a difference, the simpler the requirement generally the quicker the turnaround.

The best fine art framing is often determined by the type of artwork and the aesthetic and environmental requirements for the framing. Original oil and acrylic paintings are usually framed without glass, original pastels, watercolours, sketches, prints and artwork on paper, are almost always framed with glass to protect the art from effects of UV (ultra-violet) Light that will cause fading, and to protect the artwork from physical damage. I offer a range of standard framing options [here] to suit most requirements, just get in-touch with details of your requirements and I’ll happily provide some options.

I offer a specific bespoke hand finished framing service [here] which guides you in detailing what styles, colours, and finishes you may require and enables me to provide an accurate quotation to meet your requirements. Or, just get in-touch with your requirements and I’ll provide a quotation, and we can go from there.

Prices of my smaller standard hand finished frames average around £45.00 [here]. The moulding style, colour choices, and gilt (if required) affect the pricing, mainly due to the amount of time required for the chosen finishing options. Hand finishing is, by its nature, labour and skill intensive – creating the effects that make hand finished framing worthwhile demands attention to every detail.

Yes. If you would like to place an order for multiple frames, the same or different sizes, or finishes, I’d be happy to provide a specific quotation to meet your needs. I offer a specific range of services for artists preparing for an exhibition, I know from experience how expensive framing an exhibition can be and I always try to reflect this in my pricing. If you’d like to enquire [here] or just get in-touch and I’d be happy to discuss your precise requirements and provide a quotation.

Though not necessary I often use a slip, which can be thought of as a very simple inner frame within the main frame – you can see examples of a slip on the product images. A slip is often used as a way to slightly distance the artwork from the rebate in the main frame, softening the transition from frame to artwork. A slip is usually plain in shape, perhaps with a bevelled edge, and finishes and colours vary to sit the desired effect and the artwork being framed.

I offer this as an option depending on circumstances and requirements. I have a very particular way of packaging to ensure the risk of the glass being broken in transit is minimal, and if necessary I use a courier that specialises in transporting fragile items. Shipping without glass is cheaper and sometimes preferable, especially if it’s relatively easy for a client to obtain cut glass local to them

Glass is usually necessary only when the artwork requires protection from the environment, mechanical damage, or especially to combat UV (ultra-violet) light that can cause colours to fade. Often work on paper is mounted behind glass for this reason, original oil and acrylic paintings on canvas or board are not usually presented behind glass as the paints resist fading to a much higher degree.

Sketches or drawings are usually framed behind glass, to prevent fading by UV (ultra-violet) lights and any physical damage. It’s important to ensure that the paper doesn’t contact the glass which will cause the artwork to deteriorate, this is accomplished by using a mountboard or a filler to distance the work from the glass. There are several options available, please get in-touch if you’d like some advice on how to frame work like this.

Yes. I supply all of my frames with all of the necessary fixtures and fittings, including “D Rings”, Screws, String etc.